White Gold & Black Pearl Pendant

White gold orbit pendant set with diamonds and a black pearl.

Most of Ofiesh's work incorporates moving elements. With the flick of a hinge, a ring becomes a pendant. Or among the artist's patented Orbit Collection, a band of brilliant diamonds set in platinum spins around a simple gold bead or an elegant ring.

All of the artist's work is designed, forged, and formed by hand. Since Ofiesh is a self-taught goldsmith, he uses tools in non-traditional ways, and his methods are often unconventional by jewelry standards. He is as creative in his approach to design as he is open-minded about how to make things work.

Ofiesh took workshops along the way with noted metal workers Heikki Seppa and Ronald Pearson. He also studied gem-setting at the Revere Academy in the mid 1980s. But mostly he continued to work on his own moving from silver to gold, refining techniques, and developing his interest in jewelry that moves.

Ofiesh travels around the country exhibiting at prestigious craft shows such as the American Craft Enterprises fairs in Baltimore, San Francisco and St. Paul. Over the years he has received numerous awards at these shows.

Unable to land a prep school teaching job, Ofiesh, an English literature graduate from the University of Virginia, traveled to the small town of Chatham, Virginia, in 1973 to try to sell some of the silver jewelry he made as a hobby. He made $400 in one weekend, and that small commercial success sparked the beginnings of a 30-year career as a jewelry designer.

Indian Brides Replace Traditional Gold Jewelry as Prices Rise

Ashima Lahiri will say her wedding vows in December wearing fake earrings, necklaces and bangles that cost a tenth of the price of gold, breaking a millennia-old Indian tradition that brides wear the precious metal.

``Gold is too hot now,'' says the 25-year-old fashion designer from Kolkata, eastern India, who'll spend 15,000 rupees ($305) on her bridal set instead of 160,000 rupees for a real one. ``You can't touch it.''

Lahiri's not alone. Indian families, the world's biggest buyers of gold, are canceling purchases before the peak wedding season because prices have touched a record high in India, putting traditional bridal sets out of reach. That's spurred sales of gold-plated, silver and brass gem-encrusted jewelry, designed to match the bride's wedding saris.

``People are not willing to be victims of high gold prices and are instead going for glittering imitations,'' said Roli Malhotra, head of marketing at Sia Lifestyles Pvt Ltd., a 24-outlet chain of fashion jewelry stores based in Mumbai. ``Sales of imitation bridal sets are on the rise.''

Bullion, considered an investment haven, has weathered a global rout in commodities that has sent the Reuters/Jefferies CRB Index down 18 percent this month, the biggest fall in at least 52 years. In India, gold has gained 14 percent this year, reversing a 6 percent decline in the global spot rate, because a 20 percent slump in the Indian rupee against the dollar to a record low has driven up the cost of importing the metal.

`Double Whammy'

``It's a double whammy for Indian buyers and retail demand has been a casualty,'' said Bharath K. Rekapalli, director of Global Financial Markets, a trading and research firm, in the southern Indian city of Hyderabad.

Demand traditionally spikes in the second-half of the year, spurred by Diwali, the Festival of Light, which is considered an auspicious time to buy the precious metal by India's majority Hindu religion. Brides also buy more gold and relatives offer bridal sets as gifts for the trousseau as Indians prefer to get married in winter to avoid the monsoon rains and summer heat.

``Gold prices have put a cap on the number of sets I can buy for my daughter,'' said Rekha Makhija, 52, who will buy two instead of three collections for her daughter's wedding in January. ``While I plan to give her a few of my jewelry sets, it will be nice to buy something fashionable and trendy.''

The yellow metal is considered the best gift by relatives because it insures the bride leaves her family with her own property, said Ravi Jalan, director of New Delhi-based Jalan Commodities.

Family Vaults

Households in India have 15,000 tons locked away in family vaults, almost double the reserves held by the U.S. Federal Reserve, according to consultant McKinsey & Co. That's worth about $376 billion at current prices after gold has gained for seven straight years.

The increase is crippling Bipin Zaveri, 52, and his family's D.P. Zaveri showroom in Mumbai's 141-year-old gold bazaar.

``Many of us will be out of business if prices continue to prevail at current rates,'' he said. ``We don't expect customers to rush back just because it's wedding season.''

Indian families buy gold when prices decline and not necessarily when their daughters are getting married, said Zaveri, surrounded by glittering chains and rings in a showroom devoid of customers.

Changing trends have also reduced jewelry sales, Ramesh, who only uses one name, of R. Kothari & Co. Jewellers in Mumbai said. His revenue has dropped by almost 50 percent in the past two years, he said in an interview.

Chunky Jewelry

``No one wants chunky jewelry anymore and even if they do buy something heavy it's usually a gold set studded with precious gems or diamond,'' said Ramesh, pointing to a wall-mounted display-case with necklaces. ``Everything seems to be going against us.''

India's bullion demand was 769.2 tons of in 2007, less than the 1,000 tons estimated by the World Gold Council, as more families chose to rework their mother's or grandparent's bridal collections instead of paying for new gold.

``Every home in India has enough gold so if there is a wedding all they have to do is melt old jewelry and make new sets,'' said Daman Prakash Rathod, director at MNC Bullion Ltd., the biggest bullion dealer in southern India.

For bride Lahiri, she'd rather wear imitation jewelry on her big day than melt and destroy her great grandmother's necklace.

``Gold is considered a family heirloom and passed through generations, so why would I ever sell my family treasure?'' said Lahiri, who was in Mumbai to plan her wedding with her fiancée and friends. A gold bridal set her mother has given her doesn't match her wedding outfit, so she'll wear imitations.

``Everybody will notice how coordinated my clothes and jewelry are, and not really bother whether those earrings are fake or real,'' she said.

Inspired by the classical

MODERN creations with an old world aura - that's how best to describe Temple St Clair jewellery. Inspired by European Renaissance aesthetics, they may be old world but they're certainly the hot rocks of this age - recognised as timeless modern classics.

Temple St Clair jewellery made its debut in Barneys New York in the late 1980s, setting the tone for the iconic department store's fine jewellery section. From there, a hobby and a means to support an interest in travel and research became a business for American designer Temple St Clair Carr who has crafted it further ever since.

Ms Carr's eponymous jewellery is now distributed through over 100 retailers in the US, and leading stores in a few countries, such as Harrods in London as well as Isetan in Japan. There are plans to roll out more points of sale in Asia by late next year, but the American designer was in town a couple of weeks ago to present her jewellery in an exclusive jewellery showcase, Zenith Affair, held at the Raffles Hotel.

Making jewellery is something she 'fell into', she explains, when studying Italian Renaissance art and history in Florence. 'I was very deep into 14th and 15th century Italy and looking at all the art and architectural details and then reading the great literature of the centuries, and I wanted a piece of jewellery (that reflected that). Italy is famous for its jewellery but nothing appealed to me. It was all quite commercial.'

So she decided to design her own, seeking out Florentine goldsmiths. 'The goldsmith guild in Florence has been and largely remains a man's world, so it was quite something for them to be approached by a woman,' records Ms Carr, in a new coffeetable book on her jewellery, published by Harper Collins.

One piece she sketched that was made by the goldsmith led to another, and yet another, and Ms Carr ended up staying in Florence for close to 12 years, designing jewellery that she would sell in small, private shows in America whenever she returned. The jewellery was spotted by a Barneys' scout in Italy and the rest is history.

'My early collection of jewellery designs were very historically-based inspirations then,' she says, as she studied goldwork of ancient Etruscans and early Greeks, and had incorporated a lot of tiny gold beading and granulation work into her 22-karat gold designs, featuring coloured cabuchon gemstones.

These days, her jewellery is much more contemporary, made with 18-karat gold, for example. Besides designs which still hint at ancient and classical worlds, egg-shaped rock crystals are another signature Temple St Clair design. Her latest Fall/Winter collection features serpents and dragonflies; while butterflies featured in the Spring collection.

For Spring 2009, the mermaid will be the central theme - what mermaids might wear, such as a crystal amulet with a 'netting' of royal blue moonstones and blue sapphires and diamond-studded starfish. She's already designing the Spring 2010 collection, disclosing that it'll be Matisse-inspired.

Asked to describe the Temple St Clair brand, Ms Carr says it's a young heritage brand, much like Bulgari and Cartier when they first started out, with individual designers at the helm. And yes, she already has fans who buy her jewellery as collectibles.

'People are looking for unique, special things, not only stylish, but made in fine way' - that, she reckons, is the appeal of her jewellery.

For the accidental designer, jewellery gives her the luxury of being both an artist and an academic, says Ms Carr, because she is constantly researching themes and ideas. Many factors have coincided to bring her interests and passions together in a career in jewellery, she notes in her book's foreword; but then again, it's a rare artist who is able to make art - in her case jewellery - that is collected as timeless pieces.

Diva Fine Jewellery announces new Christmas stock of silver, gold and gemstone jewellery

Diva Fine Jewellery, a prominent High Street Jeweller just outside Edinburgh, has brought in its new stock for Christmas. There are fabulous ranges of Silver, Gold and Fashion Jewellery for all ages and all pockets. Both partners have worked extremely hard to keep prices down, but increase quality and maintain their selection of jewellery to help customers in this unstable economy still afford to buy for loved ones at Christmas. “We negotiated hard with our suppliers to maintain previous prices, quality and service that we ensure here at Diva Fine Jewellery”, said Maria Renz, Partner. “Our company stands for Quality and Service. We pride ourselves on bringing in jewellery that is unique from your normal jewellery store chains. We are a small company, but always ensure that Customer Satisfaction is top priority.

Damas brings Brazilian jewellery by Vancox

Damas is celebrating the rare charm of Brazilian jewels with the debut of Vancox in the UAE.

Founded over two decades ago in Brazil, the jewellery house won over New York’s fashion set and soon after made waves in other parts of the globe.

To mark the launch, an exclusive reception was held at the Jewellery Court, Saks Fifth Avenue in Burjuman Centre. Models wearing Vancox jewels sashayed to the beat of soothing Brazilian music.

Inspired by feminine mystique and sensuality, the latest collection spreads exquisite rings, necklaces, pendants, earrings, and bracelets featuring aquamarines, tourmalines, amethysts, diamonds, rubies, turquoises, citrines, topazes, pearls and other unique stones set in 18 carat gold.

“Vancox proposes unique jewels to stylish women around the world. When I started the brand over two decades ago, my main objective was to create jewels that reflect nature’s beauty and the wearers’ joie de vivre. It is in the same breath that we offer you our latest collection,” stated Ricardo Bronfen, the creative mind behind the brand.

“We are pleased to add another highly-acclaimed name to our roster of international brands. Vancox emphasises outstanding design and creative application of exotic gems, which are sure to appeal to our sophisticated clientele,” said Tamjid Abdullah, deputy managing director of Damas, the exclusive partner of Vancox in the UAE.

The Vancox workshop is located near the famed mines of Minas Gerais, one of the most important and diversified gemological spots in the world. B

Collection to look out for at the special promotion include the Lotus collection, the Pastilha Collection, the Nautilus collection, the Renascença collection and the Morro Velho.

“Vancox is a jewellery design studio that manufactures jewellery, and not a jewellery manufacturing company with a design department,” Bronfen added.

Diamond trade feels the heat of worldwide financial crisis

The global diamond trade is bracing for a slowdown due to the on-going worldwide credit crunch, with diamond cutting centres and merchants around the world expecting sharp declines in business even in the normally buoyant Christmas season.

People in the diamond industry say signs of a slowdown are already visible in the global diamond industry. Youri Stevenrlynck, Chief Executive Officer, Dubai Diamond Exchange (DDE), said: "During any financial turmoil investors resort to parking their money in gold as a safe haven. While gold prices have gone up substantially, the same perception does not prevail in the diamond market. Diamond sales are down in the US, the largest diamond market in the world."

According to him, diamond merchants, traders and exchanges all over the world are cautiously watching the financial turmoil.

"All eyes are on the year-end diamond sales. A large chunk of the total annual diamond sales figure is formed by the last quarter sales. The current financial crisis may cause a decline in the annual diamond sales," Stevenrlynck said, adding that even 9/11 failed to dampen diamond sales as much as the present situation is expected to do.

"After 9/11, everybody thought annual diamond sales would come down. However, diamond consumption was not affected. So far diamond sales in Dubai are not affected but if the US sales come down, the cutting centres in India will feel the impact."

It is a tense period for diamond merchants and companies, who have offices and shops in the US, Antwerp and India. During critical times and high inflation, only some big investors may buy big carat diamonds as an alternative investment. Unlike large-scale gold purchases as a safe haven, diamonds are not popular among retail investors for the same purpose. Investing in big diamonds is also limited by the liquidity factor, which is running very low at present.

ABN Amro, a leading financier of the diamond trade, was acquired by a consortium of Fortis, RBS and Santander in October 2007. In the first week of October this year, the Dutch government purchased Fortis' stake in ABN Amro, which included ABN Amro Netherlands, the International Diamond and Jewellery Group and ABN Amro Private Banking Belgium. Fortis and RBS are reportedly victims of the financial crisis. ABN Amro has been closely related to the global diamond and jewellery industry for about a century.

"The financial crisis has not affected the local banks operating in the DDE," Stevenrlynck said.

The exchange, an emerging hub for diamond trade, had recently recorded remarkable growth in the diamond business due to high oil price that created ample liquidity in the region. But diamond traders are keenly watching the oil price movements. Stevenrlynck said the assurance given by the UAE government about the safety of bank deposits will boost investor confidence in the UAE banking system.

Rajesh Rathod, Manager, Arpee Gems DMCC, exporter and importer of loose diamonds, said. "The diamond trade is in turmoil because nobody knows what will happen tomorrow. Consumers who want to buy diamonds are waiting for prices to come down because they see prices of other commodities such as gold and oil coming down. In the case of diamonds, raw material costs cannot come down and therefore there cannot be a fall in prices."

According to Rathod, many diamond firms in the UAE and India have offices in the USA where the Christmas diamond sales generate the maximum business for small polished diamonds. In an atmosphere of economic recession and growing unemployment, spending on luxury products is the first thing to be slashed by consumers.

Sajith Kumar, Vice President, JRG Commodities, said that unlike gold, which investors consider a safe haven during crises, diamonds are not actively traded commodities. "Due to differences in standardisation, diamonds are not actively traded in the UAE or other commodity markets."

In India, a major manufacturing centre of the diamond and jewellery industry, diamond workers in Surat, Ahmedabad and other cutting centres went on strike recently demanding wage hikes to compensate for high inflation, which was agreed upon by their employers. Also, share prices of jewellery and diamond companies listed on the Bombay Stock Exchange fell sharply. Indian diamond exporters who have taken dollar loans now have a tough time because of the rupee's rapid depreciation.

An industry source said: "About 50 per cent of the world's polished diamond sales is in the US market. The volume of jewellery and diamond exports from the export units in Jaipur, Rajasthan, is down by almost 50 per cent because of the global recession. The volume may come down further if the problems continue. Indian diamond cutting units, which expanded capacity in anticipation of a big growth in US market, have started cutting down expenses by retrenching excess staff."